The Changshan, a symbol of literacy and social status during the Republic of China era, has been re-envisioned by Tong Tong, who has carefully preserved its dignified silhouette while infusing it with modern sensibilities. This garment, traditionally worn by men, has been transformed through innovative tailoring methods that enhance its functionality without compromising its aesthetic integrity. The design features vertical seams that control volume and a reimagined collar that is both seamless and supportive, providing a fresh take on the Changshan's iconic stand collar.
Functionality is at the forefront of Tong Tong's design. The garment incorporates in-seam pockets that are discreetly placed, maintaining the minimalistic look while adding practicality. Mobility is also a key consideration, with inverted pleats replacing the traditional side slash, allowing for ease of movement while upholding a modest profile. The front opening has been thoughtfully redesigned to be more accessible, with a shortened overlap and a gentle curve towards the center.
The choice of fabric plays a crucial role in the reinterpretation of this traditional garment. A high-twist wool twill was selected for its resilience and wrinkle-resistant qualities, which contribute to the Changshan's smooth appearance and structural support. This material choice ensures that the garment not only looks impeccable but also stands up to the demands of modern wear.
Tong Tong's dedication to the craft is evident in the meticulous attention to detail in the design process. The neck area, in particular, presented a challenge due to the departure from the traditional neckline. Through multiple iterations and careful steam molding, the designer achieved a collar that is both aesthetically pleasing and structurally sound. The use of hymo, pad-stitched into the garment, provides the necessary support to maintain the garment's shape.
With this design, Tong Tong has successfully navigated the delicate balance between paying homage to a cultural heritage and pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion design. The result is a garment that is not only a nod to the past but also a statement piece for the modern wardrobe. The design's recognition with a Bronze A' Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design Award in 2024 is a testament to its innovative approach and the designer's commitment to excellence.
As Tong Tong's reinterpretation of the Changshan makes its mark on the fashion world, it stands as a beacon of how traditional forms can be thoughtfully and beautifully adapted for the modern era. This garment is not just a piece of clothing; it is a bridge between generations, a dialogue between the past and the present, and a celebration of cultural identity through the lens of contemporary design.
Project Designers: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer:Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023
Project Team Members: Tong Tong
Project Name: Reinterpretation of Changshan
Project Client: Tong Tong